Day 6: Wendover to Helper
A very snowy day today. Fantastic! The snow was gently falling as I went to bed last night, and when I woke in the morning there was a light dusting over the cars and buildings.
The beast, still filthy after yesterday's endeavours.
I packed the car and was soon on the road for the Bonneville Speed Flats. What a place (naturally). I cruised down the road a way, put the car in cruise control after a while.
Then suddenly I noticed there was water on 3 sides of the road… and the road just ended!
Click to enlarge and read the plaque.
Reading the plaque I was amused to note the same Donner Party that had (famously) got stuck on Donner Pass (and hence earning the pass its name) had also had troubles here crossing the salt flats. Seems that once things dry out the Bureau of Land Management prepares the speed way, and then all sorts of people come to set records. Speeds of 500 and 600 mph (nearly 1000kmh!) aren't unheard of out here. And I thought 75mph was fast.
Had a look around then rejoined I80 on it's trek across the salt flats. Stopped at the rest area and was very impressed by the space age architecture.
A very brisk breeze was blowing and there was still snow on the trees here. While peering around I saw a train coming across the flats…
I continued on and was soon working my way across the Great Salt Lake. Passed a few trains, including one that would've been a great catch but never mind. What I did catch though was a tiny manifest freight with a snoot-nosed SD40-2 in the mix. Back in the day you couldn't move for SD40s, but now they're increasingly rare. In 20 years time it'll be the same for the venerable GEVO. As for the "snoot nose", well that is a version with a specially lengthened nose containing additional radio gear for remote control operation, a forerunner of today's Distributed Power Unit technology. Anyway, there aren't many SD40s still in active service, and even fewer snoot noses.
No pics though, I was busy filming. Out here it was very cold, car was saying 32°F which is bang on freezing point, and then was wind chill. Luckily I was well wrapped up. Here is me waiting for it down the line, seems it stopped at a factory and did some shunting though so I gave up and continued on my way. Look cold enough?
Before long I was on the outskirts of Salt Lake City and remembered with a start what their roads are like: totally over the top. Check out this spaghetti junction I drove through today.
The I80 quickly went from 2 to 3, 4, 5 up to 6 lanes wide, all moving at 65mph+. Then the road works started! While it wasn't particularly taxing driving, it was still a relief to get on little old US 6 to Helper.
I soon passed a wind turbine site, which looked odd in the snow, the turbines faded into the background.
By now it was starting to snow fairly frequently, but wasn't settling on the road. The road started climbing and 30 minutes later I was cresting Soldier Summit, and WOW , what a scene! Fresh white fluffy snow everywhere and dazzling sunshine. I knew I was in heaven!
I took a quick spin down to the tracks at Soldier Summit and practised my snow driving. What I didn't count on was that the road underneath had frozen solid and was now very slick, but apart from a few slides nothing much came of it. At one point I was jumping through the snow only to find there was a big frozen puddle underneath so ended up going ice skating instead! Lined up a few shots and knew I couldn't go wrong up here…
Continued on my way and placed some good pull over points into the GPS for later reference. Was a little disappointed there were no trains up here, but that didn't last long… I hadn't even got half way down the mountain when I passed a UP manifest going the other way… the chase was on! Those spots I'd just recorded came in very handy…
I could not have asked for better. These are some of the most satisfying photos I've ever had the pleasure of shooting, especially #1 and 2 above. Opportunities like this simply do not come around in NZ. Over here it is, well, just another Friday afternoon :-)
So pleased as punch I headed back down the hill and was very surprised to see the triangular glow of headlights signalling another train hot on the heals of the UP manifest above. Turned out it was a BNSF manifest so did a quick U turn (ahh it's great being free from the Interstates!) and chased it back up the hill.
Even here, shooting into the sun, the beauty of the place shines through. Soldier Summit is one heck of a place!
Conscious of time I headed back down the hill to Helper, stopping at Castle Gate for a quick look… my how different it looks in winter.
I continued on and arrived at the Price River Motel. Last time I stayed here the owner, Mark, had been very friendly and we got along well, I even promised that I would be back, so I was curious if he'd remember me. Well. I opened the door to the office and was greeted with "Now you look familiar!" In fact he greeted me like a long lost friend, gave me a pre-heated room and let me name my price! Wow! He's also managed to acquire a family since last time, which is great to see.
I've since been adopted by his 12 year old, Courtney, who is a lovely little girl and one heck of a character. I was lying on the bed setting up my radio when she and her little sister knocked on my door and explained they were being trained by Mark to be good hosts and was there anything I needed. We had a good chat and she is fascinated by New Zealand. She then invited me over to dinner and made me French toast and eggs. I also got to meet the rest of the family and had a lovely evening with them. You can say what you like about Americans, but they are the friendliest race I've ever met.
Price River Motel in winter, I particularly like the piles of snow and cuttings to each door.
So after a delightful evening in their lounge I went back to my room and started copying photos, only to hear a meowing outside. I opened the door and was soon adopted by a very friendly cat, who spent a good hour making itself right at home on my bed. She's since gone outside, but no doubt she'll be back tomorrow.
What a change from Nevada! Arriving in Helper and being greeted so warmly made me feel like I'd just come home after a long break away. I've booked in for 3 nights, but could easily see myself extending my stay. As I write this it is gently snowing outside, weather service is suggesting 1-3 inches but I'm hoping for more.
It's good to be "home"!
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